Article by Anthony Kingston
Many of you may be aware of skin needling. It is also known as derma rolling or micro needling. In salons you can pay up to £250 per treatment for a half hour session with a therapist. What many of you may not be aware of is how easy it is to perform this therapy at home. In this blog we explore this option and some of the advantages and disadvantages of this approach.
First lets explore a myth. You may have seen this therapy done in clinics or worse on you tube. They often use very long micro needles and aggressive techniques and it looks painful or even bloody! It actually does not have to be this way. Research has shown that even when longer micro needles are used (1.5mm or longer as used in clinics) collagen induction (which is how skin needling works) only takes place up to 0.6mm into the skin (1). Thats right about half of 1mm.
In fact longer micro needles and bleeding the skin are not necessary to achieve results and micro needles are short as 0.5mm can be used successfully at home to induce your body own natural collagen.
There are some conditions where longer micro needle rollers are required particularly for burn scars and other medical conditions. These treatments should be done in clinics with correct sanitary conditions. Also some people may not feel comfortable or confident with home micro needling in which case a clinical treatment is a good option.
If however you are confident and want to save some money and potentially some discomfort then simple anti ageing facial treatments or small cosmetic scars treatments can be easily and safely performed at home.
If you are interested in doing this at home what should you do and what should you not do?
Microneedling treatment at home
Firstly the donts –
- Dont ever share your roller with anyone else. There is a lot of false advertising in the market suggesting you can resterilise, a derma roller. The fact is you cannot. You can disinfect it using either an isopropyl alcohol spray or a colloidal silver spray. This will kill all the bacteria so you are not at risk of skin infections but does not mean you can share the rollers with others.
- Dont use your standard beauty creams or lotions for 8 hours after treatment. Skin needling creates tiny punctures in the skin which increases your transdermal absorption of products placed on the skin. These micro punctures stay open for around 8 hours after treatment and will absorb any products placed on the skin during this time in increased quantities. During this time it is better to use a safe natural serum designed for use with skin needling.
Now more interestingly what should you do to perform a skin needling treatment safely and naturally at home.
- Firstly look for a supplier of the products you can trust. Remember despite their cute and colourful appearance these devices do need to penetrate the skin in order to achieve results. You need to make sure the devices arrive sterile in tamper evident packaging. If in doubt look for a UK supplier with a UK phone number so you can call and ask their advice. This is also great if you have questions when doing the treatments.
- Secondly where possible focus on natural and/or organic products to use after the treatment. This reduces your chances of side effects particularly if you have sensitive skin.
- Make sure your products come with full instructions. Written instructions are good and if possible a DVD is even better. Many cheaper products simply come with a small diagram on the side which will leave you wondering how on earth to use the products.
- Once you have the products follow the instructions accurately. Normal practice is to roll 15 times across each area of the skin being treated. This is what was done in the research which showed skin can increase collagen induction by up 1,000% in a single treatment. Treatments at home should be spaced about 2 weeks apart to allow the skin to recover. Be wary if the instructions recommend every day treatment as this does not allow enough time for skin to recover and heal.
- After the treatment with a 0.5mm roller the skin may appear red and slightly inflamed for up to 24 hours. For this reason it is best to do the treatment at night before going to bed (rather than right before a night out). By the next morning in most cases it will have returned to its normal shade. Always use the aftercare serum purchased with the treatments as the correct serum will reduce problems and enhance results.
If done correctly the research shows you can achieve an average increase in your faces own natural collagen of 206%(1). The results of a treatment will continue to improve for between 3-6 months after treatment as more collagen is converted from type 3 to the stronger and more tensile collagen type 1. New collagen once created should last between 5 -7 years making this a very long lasting natural treatment.
Keep in mind if this works well for you micro needling has also been shown to benefit scars, stretch marks and hair loss so a simple kit has a whole world of possibilities!
Contributed by Anthony Kingston of White Lotus www.whitelotusantiaging.co.uk
- Schwartz et al, 2006, internet paper. Abstract reflections about COLLAGEN-INDUCTION-THERAPY (CIT) A Hypothesis for the Mechanism of Action of Collagen Induction Therapy (CIT) using Micro-Needles; 1st edition February 2006. 2nd revision January 2007 Horst Liebl